Allumette

1320 Echo Park Avenue
Los Angeles, CA. 90026
www.allumettela.com

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Started as a summer pop-up known as The Vagrancy Project, Allumette has blossomed into Echo Park’s first foodie destination. Twenty-five year old Chef Miles Thompson (formerly of Animal and Son of a Gun) heads up Allumette’s kitchen serving up modern American fare. Gayot gives Allumette a score of 15/20. As we often do, we opted for the tasting menu.

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Gentleman’s Breakfast – The Famous Grouse, egg white, lemon, ginger honey syrup, topped with atomized candy cap bitters and Islay scotch. The cocktail had the pleasant aroma of bacon with peppery, ginger notes; it was a delight to drink.

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House made focaccia with mashed potato butter. The bread and butter was a great starter, playfully plated like bacon and eggs. This was a carb lovers dream. The bread was crispy, chewy and smoky which expertly paired with the buttery potatoes. This was one of the more memorable bread and butter presentations I have enjoyed.

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1st course – Beef tongue and pancetta cappelletto, cacio e pepe, porcini, spinach. The pasta had great texture, the filling was nice and meaty and there was the perfect amount of pepper to give the dish balance. This was a good start to the tasting.

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2nd course – Ankimo, umeboshi ponzu, sea grapes, momokochan. The monkfish liver was briny and velvety, the ponzu was bright and acidic and the fruit was sweet and crunchy. This course was full of explosive flavors that worked wonderfully together.

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Additional course – White pumpkin agnolotti, green pistachio, sage, buerre noisette. This was a comforting dish full of familiar flavors crafted with a deft hand. I loved how the white pumpkin filling burst from the agnolotti; this was yet another course full of fantastic flavors and textures.

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3rd course – Blistered cauliflower, little gem, beet, pomegranate. The cauliflower had nice spice, the balsamic added good acid and the chocolate mint was refreshing. I also enjoyed how well the olives and citrus worked together. This vegetable course was a like a good orchestra, there was a lot going on but everything was harmonious.

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Additional course – Chinese meatball, kimchi vinegar, watercress and Persian mint. The miniature meatball was the size of a dime but was packed with big, bold flavors. I loved the combination of spicy, savory, vinegary and fresh flavors.

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4th course – Branzino, shellfish tapioca, fried broccoli, lemon. The branzino was cooked expertly with a crispy skin and tender flesh, the tapioca was salty and rich, the broccoli smoky and the lemon supreme added a sour element that brightened the plate. The dish was perfectly seasoned and had great texture and flavor. This was my favorite course of the night.

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5th course – Jerusalem artichoke panna cotta, dulce de leche, huckleberry marshmallow, pepitas. The dulce de leche cake was slightly dry but terrific when eaten with the panna cotta. The fried and roasted sunchokes were savory which helped cut through the sweet, sticky huckleberry confection. The dessert highlighted the sunchoke beautifully and was a great close to an excellent meal.

I loved the ambition and big flavors showcased in Allumette’s dishes. At only 25, Chef Thompson is already producing some Southern California’s best and most exciting cuisine. I am excited to return to this Echo Park gem to see how his food evolves.

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